St Issui Church in Patricio

St Issui Church, located on an hillside with stunning views

The last church that I was recommended to visit by the Dean and Precentor at Hereford Cathedral was St Issui Church in Patricio. Patricio is in Wales, a few miles north of Abergavenny. When the Church in Wales was separated from the Church of England in 1920, the churches near the border were given the opportunity to choose which diocese and Church they wanted to belong to. And Patricio, although in Wales, had close connection with Hereford and choose to remain in the diocese of Hereford.

St Issui was Celtic holy man that lived as a hermit at a well near the present church, probably in the 6th C. His cell and the well became a place of pilgrimage and the well is said to have healing powers. A church, dedicated to Issui was erected around 1060 (just before the Normans invaded England and began the conquest of South Wales).

Patricio Church from a distance

The church is set on a hillside above the well and spring. Its location is stunning with grandiose views over the surrounding landscape. Different parts of the small church were rebuilt at different periods during the 12th to 15thcenturies. Inside, the rood screen from early 16th C is one of the glories of the church. 

The West Chapel, where the grave of St Issui is located. It was later used as a school room, but was reconsecrated in 1991. To the very left in the image is a lean-to that was used as a stable for the parson’s horse.
The nave and chancel of Patricio Church to the left and the churchyard. The upper part of the tall cross was destroyed, probably during the Reformation, but replaced by a lantern in 1918
View from the churchyard

In medieval times, every church in England and Wales had a rood screen dividing the nave (belonging to the parishioners) from the chancel (the clergy’s domain). But with the protestant reformation nearly every rood screen was destroyed. They were regarded as idolatrous. But for some reason – maybe because of its remote location – this screen (and a number of others on the border between Herefordshire and Wales) was preserved. See also my previous post about St Margaret’s Church, which also had a rood screen preserved.

The Nave and Rood Screen of St Issui Church
On the west wall is the figure of Time in the form of a skeleton holding an hour glass and a spade in his left hand and a scythe in his right. Even to a largely illiterate congregation the meaning would have been clear: Your days are numbered and you should use them wisely! According to legend, the painting has been covered by whitewash several times, but each time it reappears again

But it is the location in the Black Mountains on a hillside with beautiful views of the rolling hills to the south that for me marked the place as so special. I went there in the middle of winter but must come back when the trees are covered in leaves and the grass is green again.

The Black Mountains a cold February day

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